Life amongst the chestnut groves

Delia had long wanted to have a glass of champagne in Champagne. So now seemed a good time. As it turned out it was more of a bucket than a glass, but there you go.

On the Monday at the crack of dawn (OK more like 9.30) we drove, us two and Delia’s dad (B), some 600km and 6 hours to Epernay in the heart of the Champagne region. The non-toll route was only 20 mins longer so we went that way which saved about 100€ (both ways) and also kept me awake in order to keep on route.

Arriving in Epernay after a long but pleasant journey we easily found the apartment, unloaded the car and ventured out to explore. B made a bee-line for the first chocolate store we came across where the staff gave us samples which enticed us to buy. We found a nice looking bar where we wanted to enjoy our first glass of champagne. At B’s behest it turned into a bottle and burger followed by a large cafe gourmande (a selection of smaller desserts but in this case numbering five instead of the usual three, plus coffee).

The next morning (after being reminded how noisy a town centre can be in the early hours) we again ventured out by car to check where the Reims TGV rail station was – to make sure we had no trouble getting B there on the Thursday morning bright and early. All fine – drove back and found some free parking so we could then walk around Epernay. We headed, more or less, directly to the “Avenue de Champagne” with its grand Champagne houses and the 110km of tunnels underneath, cellars for thousands of bottles.

Before the Moet et Chandon tour (where we learnt that one actually pronounces the T) we stopped at De Venoge and tried a different champage each. I had a Brut with a mozarella salad, Delia had a Blanc de Noir and roasted vegetables and B had an Extra Brut with a cheese platter. We were told about the Brut having between 6 and 12gms of sugar added after the first ferment, the extra brut between 3 and 6gms.

That evening we went out for Delia’s official birthday meal. We started with a glass of champagne.  I had a warm duck liver and lobster entree followed by grilled bream and strawberry with black pepper and rose champagne sorbet.  Delia had a salad ardennaise then a delicious steak followed by apple tarte-tatin, B had a salad ardennaise and then grilled bream then a dessert of pear in red wine with cinnamon ice cream.

The next day, after a special bacon and scrambled egg breakfast, we drove out to Hautvillers – the birthplace of Dom Perignon – the founder of champagne.

Back for a quick lunch of boulanger sandwiches, we had another wander around and watched the Epernay tethered balloon for a while then to a wine tasting. This was actually the most fascinating of the visits so far. We first of all tasted three champagnes each made from one of the constituent grapes: the chardonnay blanc de blanc, pinot noir and the pinot meunier. Then the “assemblage” of all three.  The sommelier also talked of a variet even drier than extra brut – the “non-dosage” with less than 3gms of sugar added after the first ferment. The final two glasses were rose champagne, one made (like normal red, on macerated red grapes skins) and the second with red meunier wine blended when the sugar is added. We especially liked the first rose which was almost red and reminded us of sparkling Jacobs Creek red shiraz.

 

 

So where have I been – or where have we been. Well here is a photo to help?

No we have not been to NY, this is a small version of the Statue of Liberty which is based on the L’île aux Cygnes (Swan Island) in Paris (near the Australian Embassy and the Eiffel Tower). So why were we in Paris – well my Australian Passport was due to expire so I needed to go to the Embassy to submit my paperwork etc. It effectively was lunch in Paris though, we got to Paris at 12:30 were in our favourite Brasserie by just after 1 o’clock and enjoyed a lovely lunch with my Aunty B. We then headed over the Australian Embassy which didn’t take long so we went for a walk along the Island took some photos and headed back to the train. We had a really nice day.

One day we also headed over to Hauteforte Chateau again to enjoy a wonderful afternoon out – complete with lots of sunshine. On Aunty B’s last day we had a lovely walk in the morning and then we headed around the Troc’s (second hand stores) as the rain had set in by then. The following day she headed off to continue her travels.

2 days later my dad arrived. He is still here with us and yesterday we decided to head off to Perigueux which is a city just over an hour away and one I’ve never been to. It’s fabulous, a great amount of parking, a fantastic Medieval and Renaissance section of the town and then a short walk away to a different part of the town – a Roman villa. It was a great day out and one I would like to repeat before we leave France.

Today is a quiet day and I have all of next week off so next Saturday there should be an interesting blog from Pat.

For now, à bientôt, from our wonderful part of France – Delia

So, our friend Becky was marrying Stuart at a wonderful location called Mythe Barn in Leicestershire. We had booked our flights thinking Delia would be recovering from a bout of chemo but since that had stopped, Delia was full of beans and able to fully enjoy the visit.

We flew Ryanair into Stansted on the Friday and drove to our Nottingham friends Mike and Sandra arriving just short of midnight. On Sunday we drove to Mythe Barn with time to settle into our room before the main event. The rooms were lovely, in building that had been converted from milking sheds and we actually had an adjoining door with some other friends (Robert and Teresa) from Leicester which was nice. Joining up with the arriving guests we stood around chatting until being directed into the function room. Becky’s arrival at the cermony started with her nephew coming in on his scooter and her bridesmaid neice following, as it turned out, slightly early since Becky wanted to get the music timed just right for her entry with mum and dad. The formalities were delightful, especially since Becky was so preoccupied with the “awful” in “lawfully” that she actually said she “knew of no unlawful impediment…” and had to repeat it. All’s well that ends well though and after a return down the aisle under a “guard of honour” archway of guests with upraised linked arms we all trooped outside for photos.

The weather had been wet, in fact the extended area around the barn had flooded but nothing too near. Fate was kind and we had a completely dry period for the photos and the rain only recommenced when we had started eating. The food was delicious and drink sufficient though some tables benefited from other more abstinent ones! The ham terrine, followed by mouthwatering fillet slices and a mix of desserts gave us something to go with the wine. Speeches were touchingly personal and heartfelt, especially Becky’s mum. The music that evening was good, I even danced! Delia really let go, months of pent-up energy let loose in an hour of energetic dancing.

The theme of the wedding included Becky & Stuart’s delight in travelling and the cake consisted of a pile of beautifully crafted suitcases. Whoever made the cake outdid themselves – lemon sponge and white chocolate, cookies and cream cake, fruitcake and white fondant and carrot cake with chocolate fondant. Slabs of which we got to eat over the following days.

Breakfast had much fewer guests since, the wedding having been on a Sunday, many guests had had to get back in time to go to work the next day. It was at this point that we were anointed with the slabs of cake! We had a slow drive back through the Derbyshire and Nottinghamshire countryside to our friends.

Our final day had us visiting Calke Abbey. A fascinating mansion that had been left almost as it was when the last owner had died. He had been a recluse and also continuing the line of collectors so the house was chock full of eclectic furniture, stuffed birds and animals and a wealth of other miscellany. As well as upstairs, the lengthy tunnels and preserved kitchens and storerooms along with photo galleries gave us a good impression of life downstairs.

An early start on Thursday and a relatively uneventful drive back to Stansted and our flight home.

Well, yes the Aussie visa is finally through We had expected an interview at Australia house but no. So we can now stop the storage charges and ship our stuff over to Perth. But the high seas will have to wait a bit – Delia’s Aussie passport expires before the container will arrive and, she being the Aussie citizen whose mum’s house is the delivery address… So it looks like we need a trip to Paris soon (hmmm, could this be “on purpose”? Delia planning a trip up the Eiffel tower). Anyway I am not really dancing about with excitement about the visa since we do still have to get all of Delia’s treatment done, so that looks like a March or April departure.

We had a visitor for a long weekend. L hadn’t visited us in France before, so anything we showed her was new. I had work to do so Delia took her places as long as she had the energy. Here is a shot of her but during the weekend we did have a trip to St Yrieix. A medieval town with a strong porcelain industry. So here are some pictures featuring medieval buildings and some porcelain art. We had ourselves some good meals out too.

On Wednesday we went to the quiz for the first time since Delia’s chemo began. We came last so clearly not on form but we did “win” the chocolates.

Friday was our anniversary and we booked into a restaurant in Rochechouart that had been recommended. I had what was effectively “surf and turf” (I think they called it “field and sea”. The only “turf” was some (albeit very tasty) slivers of bacon. The mussels and scallops were delicious along with the scanty shrimp foam. Delia had a tournedos of steak with (drum roll) mushroom sauce (she shouldn’t eat mushrooms but loves them). Anyway, no harm done because after we went for out new favourite dessert a cafe gourmande which is essentially a coffee with a few different desserts.

First the apology of a late blog, we have a friend over and have been out and about enjoying ourselves – a full description below.

However the Woo Hoo title is in relation to the fact that Pat’s Partner Visa (Provisional) has been granted – on Friday 13th to be precise! We are ecstatic, so we are now planning our departure from France – once I’ve finished my treatment and we have done some of the travelling that I really want to get done!

So on to last week and the weekend. Last week was a surprisingly busy one for me at work, but that was good. Our friend L arrived late Thursday afternoon and after an early night for us all, she and I headed down to Brantome to have a lovely day out. We enjoyed wandering around the market and we found 2 art exhibitions at the Abbey – both were very good. Then off to lunch which we were able to score a table on the river front and enjoy our relaxed meal. After lunch a little bit of shopping then a slow journey back home via St Jean de Cole – where we got to see another 2 art exhibitions and relax having a cool drink before getting back into the car to head home.

Saturday was much more of a slow start – but we headed over to Saint-Yrieix-la-Perche for a wander around the medieval quarter and to have a look at one of the Limoges porcelain shops. Pat was able to join us as it was Saturday, we also got to see a Porcelain exhibition which was fascinating as it had modern pieces juxtaposed with old pieces and you really could see the inspiration – Pat and I really loved some of the lamps and vases and if we hadn’t already packed up our house I think a piece of Limoges porcelain would have found its way into our possessions. Instead we satisfied ourselves with a couple of Christmas decorations. We finished the day at an English tea room for cake and tea (well scones for me) and really enjoyed ourselves.

Sunday we were up early for a local Vide Grenier and artisanal market – we were surprised at the size of it – streets and streets of stall holders. It was amazing, one thing I have been looking for, for quite a while has been a glass or crystal dressing table set as I always remember my nana having one on her dressing table (which I now have). Much to my surprise I found a complete glass one for the grand price of €16 – I didn’t even barter on the price. So I now have something that I have to pack well and put in my suitcase!! Oh well.

More happening today and tomorrow but I’ll leave that for Pat’s blog next week.

For now, à bientôt, from our wonderful part of France – Delia

Well, another week that started with chemo. Not one I really want to remember. I could detail the after-effects of constant vomiting and the lingering nausea still inflicting poor Delia but I won’t. Its hard to be positive so I’ll leave this and promise better for next time when I (or Delia) will regale you with tales of an impending visit this Thursday from another UK friend, Linda.

This week was very much a normal week, working all week and getting back into the swing of things as summer now is slowly coming to an end. Today I even had to dig out a light jumper! I had the joy of going to an art class on Friday afternoon, which was a special summer class. I really enjoyed myself and it was very relaxing.

Last night I met a with a friend to have an drink at one of our local cafes and much to my surprise another friend joined us – I think it has been around 4 months since we were all together, so it was a lovely evening sitting outside drinking rose. Thankfully not a late night as I’m not getting enough sleep at the moment.

Cancer update – tomorrow will be the half way mark for chemo. I’m dreading it but it is nice to finally get to the half way mark, I also have a friend’s wedding to look forward to at the end of the month and I’ve now got my outfit sorted, so that is something that I’ve enjoyed doing.

I must admit being half way on my chemo journey is starting to make me think about where I want to go, especially between chemo and radio and then after I’ve finished my chemo – it is hard to think about what to do during the winter months in Europe – January and February aren’t the best times to travel! Welcome to any suggestions.

Below I have a couple of photos of one of friends and Pat both trying to outdo each other! Let’s just say that they both realised that they are not as young as they once were!

For now, à bientôt, from our wonderful part of France – Delia

Firstly, Delia wishes to apologise for her lack of blog last week. As my blog will tell you, it was a busy weekend.

After a relaxing five weeks (for us at least) Delia’s mum flew back home to Aus on Friday 16^th (and I guess Saturday too since its a long flight). However since two of our friends from Leicester arrived on Thursday, to make room for them Frances had kindly stayed her last night in a nearby Chambre d’Hote – coincidentally in the same room that we had stayed in just before we moved into our Beaulieu house over five years ago.

On Saturday we went for a stroll around the lac St Mathieu, now refilled and enjoyed a cornetto as reward for the effort.  Robert and I tried the macho thing and messed around on the outdoor gymnastic rings – I actually hung upside down but then fell on my posterior after losing my balance.

That Sunday we visited a new (to us) Chateau Hautefort. Delia and Frances had passed near this chateau on a previous visit and so Delia decided to visit it. Set on a hill the chateau dominates the surrounding countryside. The approach consists of a wide area of white gravel – dazzling without sunglasses.

The entire renovation was impressive, interiors and the gardens – all beautiful. Impressive especially since it had had a massive fire in 1968.

We were able to leave the chateau and go into the small town at the foot of the hill. There we chose a restaurant and ate a four course menu du midi (though Delia thought she’d eat a bit more lightly by having just a steak but which was an entrecote that hung over the edges of her plate).

I was able to catch up with some work on the Monday when the others went to St Estephe with Siena. On the Tuesday before our friends left for the UK we wen to a brasserie in Limoges that Delia had sourced to satisfy Robert’s hunger for mussels. Whilst Teresa and Robert both had moules frites, I had a salade perigourdine (salad with smoked duck breast and duck gizzards – not like they sound but instead, delicious). Delia had a hamburger. Dessert for me was a sample of 4 different items whilst the others had tarte aux pommes – apple tart but not as we know it Jim.

Here’s a couple of old gits and Delia.

We have been reading reports on Chateau Chalucet for several years. These were articles about its renovation and readiness for the public. So this Sunday we decided to take Delia’s mum to visit it. It was about an hours drive away but well signposted and easy to find. There was a reception centre that I went to look at and got a guide leaflet in English. This centre also had models of the site that showed the main castle on its isolated hill and the associated small settlement at its foot. It was quite a large site with several walking routes marked out. These routes were not just around the ruins of the chateau and its surroundings but also along the bank of the River Ligure.

We chose a route to take us around the ruins. Although mostly consisting of low walls there were some higher walls with arched windows. There were also some inside walls showing the remains of hearths. At the foot of the castle hill there was a tower. We climbed the solid metal framework of stairs inside the tower. This led us to the top with a view and almost at level with the chateau.

We set about climbing up to the castle. The paths were well made though showing wear and the weed control fabric in places. Clearly we had been reading the reports of the renovation for a long time. When we returned to the car, we noticed many more cars than when we had arrived. This place seems to be popular for locals taking advantage of the cooler and later evenings for picnics by the river.

Delia and I were working during the week with Frances spending much of her time on crosswords (as well as doing our laundry 🙂 ). On Thursday, since her hair had been coming out in clumps, Delia had booked the hairdresser to shave her head completely. I was surprised how it affected me. Her bald head said “cancer” to me in a way that the operations before had not. The surprise was brief and I quickly came to see Delia’s bravery and beauty shining through.

The next day I had a two client visits – at about 100km away it made sense to do two together. The first was an interesting rural location set amongst huge wind turbines. I stopped and listened to them and their soft whirring was quieter than the rustling leaves in the surrounding trees. My second client was a cattle farm set on an 18th century estate. The main building was a three storied house with 7 bedroom and many more rooms as well as an attic divided into two 100 sq m. rooms. Much had been renovated but more remains to be done. I will be building an interesting website, in three parts; their farm, their meat and their gite.

It’s been a relaxing week, which has been nice. The weather has been pleasant, not too hot but sunny. Unfortunately it was very wet last weekend but it did give us the opportunity to go to an art exhibition (all watercolour) in a nearby town; something that we all enjoyed a lot. The rest of the week was as normal as Pat and I worked, mum did the washing and her crossword puzzles.

On Friday mum and I headed into Limoges to do some wig shopping, however as the sales were on, our first stop was Galleries Lafayette, as I needed an outfit for a wedding in September. So I’ve bought my trousers now I need to find a shirt. After our little bit of shopping we found the first place for a wig and it appeared to be closed – it was just after 12:00 noon. So mum and I headed off to find somewhere for lunch. After a lovely lunch, as we were near the cathedral and mum was certain she hadn’t been inside we took some time out and had a look around the cathedral.

Then on to the next wig store – which was a hairdressers I didn’t feel confident enough to go in and ask about the wigs so we headed on to the next place. This place was very much like the first, in that it was tucked away and we had to buzz an intercom to get in, however in looking a bit more at the information at the door it appeared that we needed to make an appointment. So at this stage we decided to call an end to our day and head home. Pat will have to make some calls on Monday for me. Ultimately it does appear that there is no such thing as a wig shop in Limoges. They all seem to be hair specialists which help with all different things.

Saturday was spent just doing normal things, such as cleaning the house, washing and food shopping so not anything too exciting. Today (Sunday) however we are heading out this afternoon to visit a ruined chateau that has had some restoration. It is a place that Pat and I have been wanting to see for a while but haven’t yet visited. So looking forward to that and hopefully Pat will tell you all about it next week.

For now, à bientôt, from our wonderful part of France – Delia

Here’s a photo mum wanted to take of the very large pine tree out the front of our rental.